We get started after 9 (9:10), do a little 100m climb, and then walk around the ridge to the Auberge de Maillet (1830m). After passing the hostel we climb up to the base level of the Cirque de Troumouse (~2100m) on a very steep path cutting across switchbacks in the road. Since we're late, this is in the direct sun, so it's hot. The Cirque is very, very impressive: it covers about 300 degrees, has high walls (>500m), lots of variation in wall mountain type, and is about 13km across.
We walk across to the "middle" where there's a silly statue of Mary (why is she holding a rosary? "hail me, full of grace..."), a shepherd's hut (the only source of shade visible) and a ton of people. We have lunch and a nice rest in the shade of the hut then set off for another hour across the Cirque to find a good camping spot near water and the beginning of tomorrow's hike. The wall that we're going to be going up looks pretty steep and sheer, but the guidebook hasn't led us wrong yet, so this is no huge cause for anxiety.
We succeed with our quest at around 3pm and then spend the next couple hours doing some laundry and screwing around. After an early soup course at 5 we futz around a bit longer before pitching the tent at 7 and having the main course of dinner.
The earlier crowds are all gone and all is quiet; aside from us the only life in sight is cows and sheep. For whatever reason, these herds don't move down at night.
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