Sunday, October 11, 2015

Vacation Sardinia Part II: Climbing around Cala Gonone

view from balcony across the Golfo di Orosei
Sunday, October 11
did some afternoon climbing after driving up to and down from Olbia to get rental car
La Poltrona (behind sports grounds above town, all routes in the sun, rather warm)
#2, piccolo stronzo, 4c
#7, guendalina, 4c
#6, ciquita, 5a
#8, dopo il pesce, 5b
#9, hey jude, 5c (greg only)
La Poltrona
Margheddie (north of town, after walk on dirt road and scramble up to the rocks, all routes in the sun  and thus really hot, no route names)
#7, 4c
#9, 5c+ (andrea top rope)
#5, 5a
rest: greg only, andrea's feet got too hot and uncomfortable in her climbing shoes
#6, 5b
#4, 5b
#3, 5b
#8, 5c
Greg climbing in La Margheddie
Monte Bonacoa (drive to tunnel above town, then on small, steep, bad dirt road almost to the top of the ridge, walk along dirt road and path to climbing area, we were the first ones there at shortly past nine, lots of others were yet to come, but it never felt too crowded, we climbed in the shade almost all the time)
#20, riscaldati, 5a
#19, mister sierra, 5b
#21, bentu 'e susu, 5b
#14, una nuova vita, 5c
#16, tuco, 5c
#17, cocillo, 5a
#15, raiu, 6a (greg did most of this but then switched to the neighboring 5c to set up the top rope after failing at the crux a couple of times; both made it top rope)
the crag of Monte Bonacoa with Cala Gonone in the background
Budinetto in the morning (above town, crappy dirt road as approach, were really early, started climbing before 9am, as it was cloudy the sun was not critical, but sector gets sun at 10 or so, it did get rather crowded after a while)
#6, il re della griglia, 5a
#7, mitico gippi, 5b
#1 el piero, 5b (only first pitch)
#2, lolla, 5b+5c (greg both pitches, andrea only first one)
#3, snikky snakky mukky mukky, 5b+5c (andrea both pitches, greg only first one)
light rain started during our break, thus we packed up and went home for a siesta
La Poltrona in the afternoon (left the flat at around 3pm, cloudy but dry, saw many leaving as we arrived, yay)
#10, sono forse io?, 5b
#9, hey jude, 5c
#21, l'eremita, 6a (5c to the right, might not have used correct stand)
rain started again, thus couldn't continue with #20, Ciao Alex, 6a
Budinetto (as seen from Placche di Flinstones)
Placche di Flinstones (same approach as Budinetto, a bit further up and to the left, were the first at the rocks, nice blue skies and sun, but cooler and at times windy, shade moved in at around 1pm at the left hand side we were on)
#18, Dammi La Clava, 5a
#15, B.C., 5b (slippery start)
#13, Flintstone, 5c
#8, Barny Rubble, 5c
#7, Bam Bam, 6a (andrea top rope only)
#9, Edulcoranti non cariogeni, 5b
it got too crowded and we left
Buchi Arta (narrow, windy paved road south along the coast, stopped early and walked the last km, were the first ones there, but it really filled up quickly, lots and lots of people...)
#1, El Principe, 5b
two routes to the left of #1, not in our book, both rated 5c
a 6a in between #1 and #2 in our book
#2, unnamed, 5b
#33 or #34, unnamed , 5c or 6a (greg only)
pig interested in climbing?
walk to Biddiriscottai but directly in the morning sun and already too hot for comfortable climbing; drive to Cala Fuili, walk along the canyon Codula Fuili; last ice cream and stroll in Cala Gonone; drive to Olbia and flight back
along the coast to the caves of Biddiriscottai
in the Codula Fuili
if not noted otherwise, routes were done by both andrea and greg "im Vorstieg"
route #'s from climbing book "Pietra di Luna", deutsche Ausgabe, 2011

Friday, October 09, 2015

Il Selvaggio Blu: Cala Mudaloru to Altopiano del Golgo

Day 5:
Walk out through the Bacu de Mudaloru up to the Altopiano del Golgo (past the Chiesetta die San Pietro), get picked up and driven to the refugio of the COOP Goloritze, then drive to Baunei and back to Cala Gonone
through the Bacu Mudaloru

more wooden ladders

looking for the right way in the rain

Thursday, October 08, 2015

Il Selvaggio Blu: Cala Goloritze to Cala Mudaloru

Day 4:
from Cala Goloritze up and up and up, past the Ovile S’Arcu ‘e su Tasaru along the crest/Grat of the Serra‘ e Lattone (got lost and followed the path down to the Cala Mariolu for a while), to another view point (no name on map), then down down down to the Punta Mudaloru and around the corner to the Cala Mudaloru

and a bit of climbing


camp in a cave

Wednesday, October 07, 2015

Il Selvaggio Blu: Portu Cuau to Cala Goloritze

Day 3:
Portu Cuau, along and along, break and map reading at the Ovile Su Runcu 'e su Pressu, to the view point of Punta Salinas, then down to Cala Goloritze

view down and along the coast

Cala Goloritze

Tuesday, October 06, 2015

Il Selvaggio Blu: Ovile Su Idileddu/Ginnirco to Portu Cuau

Day 2:
walk along and along, past the Capo Monte Santu, past Portu Pedrosu to Portu Cuau to sleep
walking high above the water
hands required.....
Portu Cuau

Monday, October 05, 2015

Il Selvaggio Blu: Pedra Longa to Ovile Su Idileddu/Ginnirco

Day 1:
drive to Baunei (various shoppings) and Santa Maria Navarrese (more shoppings, then lunch and food distribution), drive to Pedra Longa, start hiking, walking along the shore, then up underneath the cliffs of the Punta Giradili, past the Ovile us Piggius to the road on some pass (Co 'e campu?) and the Ovile Su Idileddu/Ginnirco to sleep
walk along the coast
views down and back to Pedra Longa

Saturday, October 03, 2015

Vacation in Sardinia Part I: Il Selvaggio Blu

Saturday, October 3,
fly from Zurich to Olbia, pizza for dinner and night in Olbia

wander around town for most of the day, meet Bergpunkt group at Olbia airport in the afternoon, drive together to Cala Gonone, stay in Hotel Cala Luna

Monday to Friday: Hike along the Selvaggio Blu
Day 1: Pedra Longa to Ovile Su Idileddu/Ginnirco
lazy rainy morning, check out pictures on balcony, walk around town, group excursion to the Sorgente Su Gologone (spring) and visit of Dorgali

drive up to Olbia to get rental car, and back down to Cala Gonone to continue with Vacation in Sardinia Part II

Complete track of our hike along the Selvaggio Blu