Sunday, October 11, 2015

Vacation Sardinia Part II: Climbing around Cala Gonone

view from balcony across the Golfo di Orosei
Sunday, October 11
did some afternoon climbing after driving up to and down from Olbia to get rental car
La Poltrona (behind sports grounds above town, all routes in the sun, rather warm)
#2, piccolo stronzo, 4c
#7, guendalina, 4c
#6, ciquita, 5a
#8, dopo il pesce, 5b
#9, hey jude, 5c (greg only)
La Poltrona
Margheddie (north of town, after walk on dirt road and scramble up to the rocks, all routes in the sun  and thus really hot, no route names)
#7, 4c
#9, 5c+ (andrea top rope)
#5, 5a
rest: greg only, andrea's feet got too hot and uncomfortable in her climbing shoes
#6, 5b
#4, 5b
#3, 5b
#8, 5c
Greg climbing in La Margheddie
Monte Bonacoa (drive to tunnel above town, then on small, steep, bad dirt road almost to the top of the ridge, walk along dirt road and path to climbing area, we were the first ones there at shortly past nine, lots of others were yet to come, but it never felt too crowded, we climbed in the shade almost all the time)
#20, riscaldati, 5a
#19, mister sierra, 5b
#21, bentu 'e susu, 5b
#14, una nuova vita, 5c
#16, tuco, 5c
#17, cocillo, 5a
#15, raiu, 6a (greg did most of this but then switched to the neighboring 5c to set up the top rope after failing at the crux a couple of times; both made it top rope)
the crag of Monte Bonacoa with Cala Gonone in the background
Budinetto in the morning (above town, crappy dirt road as approach, were really early, started climbing before 9am, as it was cloudy the sun was not critical, but sector gets sun at 10 or so, it did get rather crowded after a while)
#6, il re della griglia, 5a
#7, mitico gippi, 5b
#1 el piero, 5b (only first pitch)
#2, lolla, 5b+5c (greg both pitches, andrea only first one)
#3, snikky snakky mukky mukky, 5b+5c (andrea both pitches, greg only first one)
light rain started during our break, thus we packed up and went home for a siesta
La Poltrona in the afternoon (left the flat at around 3pm, cloudy but dry, saw many leaving as we arrived, yay)
#10, sono forse io?, 5b
#9, hey jude, 5c
#21, l'eremita, 6a (5c to the right, might not have used correct stand)
rain started again, thus couldn't continue with #20, Ciao Alex, 6a
Budinetto (as seen from Placche di Flinstones)
Placche di Flinstones (same approach as Budinetto, a bit further up and to the left, were the first at the rocks, nice blue skies and sun, but cooler and at times windy, shade moved in at around 1pm at the left hand side we were on)
#18, Dammi La Clava, 5a
#15, B.C., 5b (slippery start)
#13, Flintstone, 5c
#8, Barny Rubble, 5c
#7, Bam Bam, 6a (andrea top rope only)
#9, Edulcoranti non cariogeni, 5b
it got too crowded and we left
Buchi Arta (narrow, windy paved road south along the coast, stopped early and walked the last km, were the first ones there, but it really filled up quickly, lots and lots of people...)
#1, El Principe, 5b
two routes to the left of #1, not in our book, both rated 5c
a 6a in between #1 and #2 in our book
#2, unnamed, 5b
#33 or #34, unnamed , 5c or 6a (greg only)
pig interested in climbing?
walk to Biddiriscottai but directly in the morning sun and already too hot for comfortable climbing; drive to Cala Fuili, walk along the canyon Codula Fuili; last ice cream and stroll in Cala Gonone; drive to Olbia and flight back
along the coast to the caves of Biddiriscottai
in the Codula Fuili
if not noted otherwise, routes were done by both andrea and greg "im Vorstieg"
route #'s from climbing book "Pietra di Luna", deutsche Ausgabe, 2011

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