The forecast for the weekend was good, so we went to the Rätikon to do some climbing. We've only been in this region once before in the summer time: long ago back before we started climbing and didn't really get it. Things are different now. :-)
After the long trip to get there, we drop a bag at the Hotel Sulzfluh and then hike up the valley, past the Partnunsee (plenty of people enjoying the nice weather at the lake) and up, up, enjoying the fantastic landscape, to the end of the valley and the Gruobenflueli. On with the gear and let the climbing begin.
Routes (grades are from the SAC Tourenportal):
- Spätzünder (5a, 5b, 6a+)
- Nebelmeer (first two pitches only: 5a, 5b)
Excellent climbing on compact, slabby limestone. Fun fun.
Then we make the descent back to the hotel, have a shower and a nap, a good meal, enjoy sitting outside in the evening sun, then off to bed for an early start the next day.
Sunday morning the clouds are still around as we set off back up, up the valley. Today we're planning on climbing Abraxas: a long multipitch through the wall of the Chlei Venedig. We aren't great at finding the start of alpine routes anyway, and the clouds definitely don't make things easier, so it takes us a while to find the route. In the end we actually missed the easy beginning of the first pitch at started at one of the bolts along the way. 🤷
The route is great, the climbing is lots of fun, and the clouds even go away before we make it to the top, so we have some awesome views to enjoy from the belays. This is our first real 6a multipitch (Quarzader has a 6a move, but that hardly counts) and it goes well. We aren't fast through those pitches, but we both do our leads without falling (G does hang in the rope twice in order to rest).
The pitches, grades according to Plaisir Ost: 4c, 5c+, 4b, 4a, 6a+, 6a+, 5a, 4a, 5b, 3c. A. started
After topping out we pack the ropes away and change into the approach shoes (A actually knocks one of hers off the edge, but we're lucky and it stops just before a big drop, we're able to lower her down to retrieve it), and then head up through light scrambling terrain until we reach the top and the normal hiking path. Here we do a food break, pack all the gear away, and then head off along the path towards the Sulzfluh. We drop the ropes and a bit of gear at the fork for the Gemschtobel and then do the last bit up the peak. Another short break to enjoy the views and have another snack, and then we start our way down, down. The path through the Gemschtobel is efficient and fun, through some impressive terrain. Down, down, down we go until we make it back to Partnun. Here we pick up our hotel bag, refresh ourselves a bit, and then do the last of the short descent to the bus stop and the long trip back home.
Excellent weekend of climbing in a really nice area. We really need to go back and have some more fun in the Rätikon. :-)
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