Amden Climbing Weekend

Saturday: we get a somewhat later start since G wanted to do a long run in the morning. 

We drop our bags at the hotel (thr Rössli is closed! Outrageous!) and take the chairlift up. 

There are a fair number of people up at the crag, so we opt for Gimmi (5c), with A starting. The first pitch is an adjustment (slabs and wasserrillen in limestone is cetainly different), but after that things are pretty chill. The 5c last bit has a short, hairy traverse at the very beginning that G does by using the shrubbery to get to the first bolt. The steep bit is no problem, and then we are done. Some lunch and then across to the abseilpiste and down without drama. Fun route, perfect weather (t-shirt climbing in October!), yay! We eat a bit more and then walk down all the way to the hotel. A drink in the sun, a shower, a short nap, dinner (Indian buffet… not bad), and then bed.

Sunday: breakfast is at 8, so we are a bit later than we would like, but we still make it to the chair lift shortly after 9. Up, up to the crag, get set up, wait for the pair before us (climbing the route to the right of ours, but from the same start, we end up chatting with them throughout the climb), and then we get started climbing Variante. G starts today.

Getting started on the slab isn’t quite as dramatic as Saturday, but he is still very happy to clip the first bolt. A ends up leading both of the 6a pitches (I guess we knew this? It was definitely G’s turn to start), which she does without problems. It’s mostly overcast, so definitely cooler than yesterday, and we climb in our jackets, but aside from the first couple of pitches neither of us is actually cold. After the five pitches we have a quick food break before traversing to the abseilpiste. Today the rope pretends to snag a couple of times on the way down, but it’s just pretending. :-)

At the bottom we have a relaxed lunch before packing everything up and walking back down to get the bus.

Mattstock climbing is a very particular style; a style we like. And the rock is really good. Too bad that there aren’t more routes for us to try out. I think Variante, and the 5c version of Gimmi were the last 5th grade routes we hadn’t done. Ah well… repeating nice routes is also not bad. :-)

Grimsel Climbing Weekend

Perfect forecast for the whole weekend, so we decide to head up to Grimsel on Friday night. This time we stay at the hotel at Handeck (a first for us). After a really nice meal we head off to have a good night’s sleep. 

G gets up early on Saturday morning to go running (up to Grimsel Hospiz and then back… very nice), then we have breakfast and hike up to Gerstenegg. The plan for today is to do Letzter Tango (we did this last time too); after not having done so much climbing this year it seemed smarter to start somewhat easier. The climbing went really well, the conditions were just ideal (aside from having to belay from a patch of snow on one pitch), super fun. We simulclimb the 3er pitches in the middle, but belay everything else.

Up top we pack away the gear and eat something before doing the hike back down to the hotel (that first bit from the Dom to the Bächlitalhütteweg  really is nice).

Showers, a short nap, another very good meal, and then off to bed.

Sunday morning we hike back up to Gerstenegg and climb Ameisenrennen. We did the first three pitches of this a couple of years ago. G starts and it is super climbing from the beginning (the first 5c forces you to pay attention). More varied in style than the other routes we have done here, and super fun. Only one snow patch. We simulclimb the two 3er pitches and belay everything else normally. It’s over too soon, which is saying a lot for a 17 pitch route!

Up top we eat something and then do the fun hike back down to Handeck where we pick up our extra bags and then get the bus for the long trip home.

What an awesome late-season climbing weekend/mini-vacation! 33 pitches of Grimsel granite and blue skies and sunshine throughout!

Thing to remember: more busses run to/from Handeck than higher up and the approach to Gerstenegg from there isn’t super long; it’s a nice alternative.

Climbing the Nueneneflue

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Long weekend in Unterwasser

The plan was to spend the long weekend doing some multi-pitch climbing in the Alpstein. It didn't quite work out that way, but it was a great weekend anyway.

Thursday 

We took the train to Unterwasser on Thursday morning, dropped our bags at the hotel (which happened to have our room ready... such a bonus!), and then split up and did some trail running/hiking in the Churfirsten for the rest of the day. It had rained like hell the previous day and overnight and remained overcast, so climbing wasn't a great idea. Still, we both had good days in the mountains and met back at the hotel for a rest and then dinner.

Friday

Friday was a beautiful, blue sky day. In the morning we hiked up to the Schattenwand and got set up to start with the three-pitch route Schlüsselblümli. Unfortunately it became clear pretty quickly as G was leading the first pitch that there was a ton of grass in the route. This wasn't any kind of problem for the climbing, but G didn't want to end up with ook on his hands again. So he came back down. A then led the pitch so we didn't have to leave anything behind and we packed everything up and did the very nice hike over to the Klettergarten Stoss. The rock here looked super nice, but is fully exposed to the sun and it was pretty crowded in the section of the wall where the easier routes were. A tried Heinz (5b+), but that was a bit too much for the first climbing here. G was already mentally done, so we packed the stuff up again and hiked back to town. Not much of a climbing day, but we had beautiful weather, great views, and some good hiking.

Saturday

Saturday was another perfect weather day. We left the climbing stuff at the hotel (rather than risk another day with no real climbing) and did an alpine hike instead. We took the bus to Wildhaus and headed from there along easy paths to Gamplüt. Then it was red-white steeply uphill along a nice grassy ridge to the back of the Wildhuser Schofberg. Here we took a food break, enjoyed the views, and scoped out the route ahead of us while we discussed what to do next. There was a considerable amount of steep snow in the next stage of the blue-white trail in front of us. There were clear tracks in the snow and other people underway, but G was still really nervous about the snow. In the end, G gathered himself, we changed into the approach shoes (we'd been wearing trail-running shoes to that point and carrying the approach shoes in a backpack), and we started off. G didn't enjoy the traverse across the snow or the descent into the bowl, but the snow was soft enough that it was no problem. The hike/scramble back up the other side to the saddle next to the Jöchli was fun (a bit of snow at the top, but ascending is always easier than traversing or descending). From the saddle we went up the Jöchli  itself to enjoy the crazy views and then continued along the trail under the Nädlingergrat. This would have been even more fun if there were no snow in it, but it was still pretty good. At the end of the ridge we hit the red-white hiking path crossing from the Rotsteinpass to the Zwinglipass and followed this (a couple before us had take the very quick way down by descending a steep snow field... this was too much for us). After sliding down the last bit of snow of the initial descent, we follow this very well trampled path to the Zwinglipasshütte. A cool beverage and snack while enjoying the views, then on with the trail running shoes and a mostly very nice hike/run back to Unterwasser. This was a great day hiking, despite the snow. :-)

Eppenberg climbing

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Climbing in Court

 We didn't make it down to Locarno for the long weekend, but G still wanted some slab practice, so we went to Dalle de Court.

The usual nice hike through the gorge from Moutier, then on with the gear and up we climbed to the ledge. From there we did:

• Nikita (5b+)
• La Betise (5c+) ??? did we do this one?
• Multidirecte (5c)
• Voie du Milieu (5c+)
• Felix (5c+) G fell on the first bit of this, which was enough to sap his already flagging motivation, so he just finished the first half. A climbed both halves

After finishing up we packed up the things and then did the nice walk back to Moutier.

Another couple showed up after we'd done a couple routes and another pair arrived as we were finishing, so there were no crowds at all (certainly not like how it would have been if we'd made it down South!).

Orvin climbing

An absolutely beautiful sunny and and cool Spring day!

We went to the crag NNN above Orvin. There were just a few other people there when we arrived, but it ended up being pretty crowded. I guess not that surprising considering the quality of the rock and routes. I shudder to think what it must have been like at the crags that have shorted approaches!

Sector NNN

G starts

Routes:

 Yakari 5a+

La poursuite de bonheurs 5b+

Verdon facile 5b+

Toit va bien 5c+

Hammer 5c (A only)

Gerpete 6a (A only)

G ran out of motivation at the end and just did belaying.

Instead of going directly back to Orvin, we continued along the path to the ridge and then walked down to Frinvelier.

Climbing vacation in Finale Ligure

Sunday

Morning:

Trail run together

Afternoon climbing

Crag: Avancorpo Di Boragni

g starts

• Quinta Elementare 5a
• Primi Passi 5b
• A Naso 5b+
• Passera 5c
• Via Senza Nome 1 5c

Monday

First we tried Casa del Vacche, but it was too wet

Crag: Falesia dello Scoiattolo

A starts

• Nuvole 5a
• Corridoio 5c (A on TR)
• Struzzo (6a+, g TR, A TR with an alternate beta for the overhanging bottom)

hike back through the woods

Tuesday

Crag: Falesia della Coccinella

g  starts

• 14 5a
• 15 5a
• 10 5b
• 9 5c (this one was tricky between the 1st and 2nd bolt. We both did it lead with some hanging, then top roped it to refine the movement)
• 16 5c (no problem)
• 17 6a+ (g lead, A toprope; a start that looked athletic, but wasn’t that bad, then a tricky bit of slab before an easy finish)

Wednesday

Crag: Falesia della Coccinella

A starts

There were some things that looked good left to climb, so we came back.

• 20 5a
• 21 5b (very physical at a couple of points. A did TR)
• 18 6a 
• 23 5c+ Fun climb; harder in some ways that the 6a
• 22 6a (A did TR with a bit of help over the physical crux). Super nice after the physical crux

Thursday

Crag: Falesia del Gorilla

g starts

Alone in the morning, then more people showing up in the afternoon. Really nice, long routes.

• 9 5a
• 10 5b
• 14 5c (35m, lovely!) (g with a fall going over one overhang)
• 12 5c+ (34m, lovely!)
• 1 6a fun!
• 8 6a (31m, soooo nice after the weird start)

Friday

Crag: Falesia del Condor

A starts

Really nicely situated crag walkable from our flat; we were alone all day.

• 1 5b
• 2 5c (start looks super physical but is actually pretty easy)
• 7 5c
• 8 5c+
• 9 6a
• 10 6b (A in TR) This was g's first 6b onsight
• 5 6a

Saturday: 

Some rain in the morning, so we went trail running. After the first loop together (with three different sets of people asking us how to find a famous cave with easy climbing routes), g repeated the loop from the first day on his own, A went for a stroll down to Finalborgo.

Other stuff: 

• we rented a car in Basel and drove down. The drive, less than 6 hours since we didn't have traffic, wasn't bad at all.
• the flat worked well and the location up on the hill above town was great.

This was a great trip and we definitely need to go back. :-)

Barenfels climbing

 It was a fantastic, warm, spring day, so we went climbing in the afternoon at Barenfels.

Routes:

• Steinbrunnenwand: Green River 5b
• Ostgruppe: Bel Ami 5b
• Ostgruppe: Level 2 5c+ (g only)
• Ostgruppe: Oliver Twist 5a (A only)
• Ostgruppe: Chruetlischwur 6a (g, toprope)

We were, unsurprisingly, not alone (at least until we moved over to the Ostgruppe) :-)

We are both still very much getting used to climbing on rock again, so this was good progress.

Falkenflue climbing

 First time outside in the Jura in a looooong time!

Climbing in sector Piazza Grande, we found five routes that shared a common anchor

• T18 5a
• Oazapft'is 5b (TR)
• Freibier 5c+ (TR)
• La Bete 6a (TR, g only)
• Kanal Fatal 6b (TR, both of us played at the beginning, but couldn't get past the first slabby bit

We both almost need to re-learn how to climb on rock; it was super nice to be able to do the last routes in toprope and to be able to practice with a smaller mental component.

Also: Falkenflue is great!

Arete des Sommetres

 The forecast was for sun, but maybe too cold for climbing shoes, so we decided to do the Arete des Sommetres again.

We weren't alone (unlike last time) since another pair started just before us, but we didn't have to wait for them too much and there was no one pushing from behind.

It's a really nice scramble and it was great to be out and moving with perfect weather conditions. 

After finishing (in just under three hours, with a short snack break to let the other pair get a bit further ahead of us), we did a nice lunch break at the top and then enjoyed the walk down to Saignelegier.

Climbing above Engelberg

We decide to take advantage of the good weather by spending the weekend in Engelberg and doing some climbing.

Saturday morning we take the train to Engelberg, drop an extra bag at the hotel, then take the bus, gondola, and chair lift up to the Brunnihütte. From here we hike up to the klettergarten at the Bettlerstock, where our plan is to spend the day doing sport climbing in the sun.

We start in the sector Bettlerstock West, which is unfortunately shady in the morning:

• Adler 5a
• Murmel 5b (g only, at this point we decide that it's too cold and windy for this sector)

After moving to Sector South, which was in the sun, though still a bit windy:

• Südwand 5c (we consider doing the second pitch, but it seems to sketchy for g)
• Die da 5c+
• Janosch 6a+ (A halfway, g with one hang)
• Macbeth 7a (g was playing in toprope here and only made it part of the way up before getting completely blocked on a move)

We called it a day at that point and headed back down to Engelberg.

Sunday morning g got up early and did a trail run before breakfast. After breakfast we headed up to the Brunnihütte again and did some of the short routes on the crag next to the hut. We climbed all of these in approach shoes:

• Barba Lala 4a
• Barba Letta 4b
• Barba Kud 5a
• Barba Bo 4b
• Mama Moll 5a
• Globi 5a

At this point we decided that the weather and views were just too good to be climbing, so we followed the panorama trail to the Rugghubelhütte (their last day open of the season), where we enjoyed cake and cool beverages in the sun while enjoying the fantastic views before heading back down to Engelberg and the train back home.

Memo to ourselves: we really need to go up some weekend, stay at the Rugghubelhütte, and do the Lauchernstock east ridge.

Track from the hike:

Stats: 13.8km, 540m up, 1400m down, 4:10

Climbing at Stockhorn

Good weather forecast day, so off we head to the Stockhorn. The train ride is a bit scary since we're still under the hochnebel, but that clears up once we turn into the Simmental. The views open up as we take the gondola up... nice!

Our first route is Chum u lueg, which we did nine years ago. We're faster now (though not as efficient today as we were last year... the missing practice shows), but it's still an enormously fun route, and the bit of coming out into the crowds at the top of the Stockhorn is definitely entertaining.

After a bit of food, we head down to one of the sport climbing sectors and did the first pitch of Märitfroueli 5a (A did this one in lead, which was her first lead since injuring her elbow), then the first pitch of Pistache 5c (A top rope) before going back to Märitfroueli and doing both pitches. After eating a bit more we moved up to the next sector and did ??? 5b. At this point G's motivation was lagging (some was the fact that we haven't been climbing outdoors much in quite a while, some was irritation at a loud group with a screaming kid), so we had another snack and then walked down to Chrindi and the gondola down.

Beautiful day and great rock. More! :-)

Climbing at Baerenfels

The plan was to go climbing somewhere else, but g forgot the gri-gri, causing us to miss the train we wanted, so we went to Baerenfels.

Routes (grades from Plaisir Jura, g lead all of them, A did top rope)

1. Alpha (5a+)
2. Mit Seil und Saege (5b). Crack-climbing Jura-style, including a bit of an off-width at the bottom
3. Oliver Twist (5a). We have definitely climbed this before
4. Chruetlischwur (6a). g only, top rope.
5. Bel Ami (5b). g only.

We're both still remembering how to do this outdoor climbing thing, and A still has a way to go to recover her strength, but things are coming along and it was a fun day. The sun even came out, which was wild!

La Roche St-Jean climb and scramble

Climbing trip to Sicily

 

The climbing

• Friday 22 March, morning. Sector Central bunker
• Vai a Sinistra 5a
• Via Kuchenclub 5b
• Il Ritorno 5c
• Arrivederci Ingrid 6a (both lead with one fall)
• Il Nonno 5c
• Friday 22 March, afternoon. Sector South amphitheatre
• Burning fat 5a (felt harder than 5a)
• El Bahira 5b (A only)
• Just for fun 4c (A only)
• Saturday 23 March, morning. Sector North Campo Base
• Maria 5a
• Eliza 5c (this was our project back on the first visit 12 years ago)
• Chiara O 5c
• No Drill No Party 5b
• Mannara 6a
• Scorpione In Letargo 6a (G top-rope first 1/2, then down, A top-rope first 1/2, then lead, G lead the whole way, “accidentally” since the planned setup to allow him to top-rope the first 1/2 didn’t work)
• Calze Nere 6a+, both top-rope the first 3/4 to the head wall (from the stand of Scorpione), which looked easy and uninteresting
• Saturday 23 March, afternoon. Sector Central For Snails
• For snails 5a
• Autonella 5c
• Stay straight 5c
• Fay is the boss 6a (top rope, very nice climbing)
• Sunday 24 March. Sector North Orange Wall
• Gracie Josef 5c (A kicked loose a big rock on this one and that changed the character of the day for her)
• Gracie Maria 5c (A to 2nd to last bolt)
• Pray al Vento 5c (G only)
• Sunday 24 March. Sector North Campo Base
• Cimitero della Lumache 6a (A in top rope)
• Mezzo Crucchi 6a+ (A in top rope)
• Dolores 6b (G in top rope, A attempts)
• Monday 25 March. Sector Center Bunker
• Colazione Piu 5b
• Pilastrino 5c
• Strapiombino 5c
• New Years Greetings 6a
• Classic Delux 6a+ (A top-rope with some pulling through the very physical crux)
• Silvester 6a (A top-rope, but it was easy for her)
• Tuesday 26 March, morning: we tried, but it was super windy, so we went home
• Tuesday 26 March, afternoon: Sector Far South Cocodrillo
• King for a day 5b
• Tuesday 26 March, afternoon: Sector Far South Isulidda tower (we changed sectors because it seemed like the entire German speaking world wanted to climb the four routes we were interested in in Cocodrillo)
• Tower pillar 6a
• Luigi 6a
• Skywalk 6b
• Anton aus Tirol 6a+ (G only)
• Wednesday 27 March, morning, Sector Central, Il Paese Piccolo. We ended up leaving early because it was raining
• Via Giuliano 5b
• Tibi 5c
• Don Pedro 6a
• Wednesday 27 March, afternoon, Sector Central, Il Paese Piccolo
• A Passatempto 6a
• Espresso 6a (A 3/4 lead, then top rope over the bulge, but the final beta for this was doable in lead)
• Sono In Fuga 6a (A couldn’t get over the bulge, which was super physical)
• Eselparty 6a+ (G only, again super physical over the bulge)
• Thursday 28 March. Sector South Scomparto Rifiuti
  • Happy Birthday 5b
  • Tre Fratelli 5c
  • Diedro Giallo 6a (A toprope because she wasn’t sure about the physical last bit, but she found a good solution to it and it would have been no problem)
  • Chris 6a (A did 85% of it and then took a bad fall. Finished the route later in toprope)
• Saturday 30 March. Sector Central, Bunker. Today was super windy, so the climbing was a bit challenging at times and the rope handling required care.
  • La Femmina 5b
  • Fur Christian 5c (A toprope to get her head back in it)
  • Lavoro di Domenica 6a
  • Per Giorgio il mio Amico 6a
  • Happy Otzis 6a
  • Due Giganti sulla Roccia 6a+ (G only, pretty good fall in the crux on the first try)
• Sunday 31 March. Sector North, Campo Base. A's head wasn't in it for the last half
  • Nini 5c
  • Chiara O 5c
  • Via Della Zanzare 6a+ (A halfway, G the second half but with a PA, A toprope, G toprope)
  • Molloblocco 6b (G in toprope with a couple of rests, this felt like the absolute limit of what was doable. A did some good tries, but couldn’t get through the very thin crux)
  • Mezzi Cruchi 6a+ (G, this was a repeat from last Sunday)
  • Calze Neri 6a+ (G, last week he just top roped the first 80% or so)
• Monday 1 April. Sector Central, Fakiros Wall. By the end, it was hot and both of us were feeling a bit tired in the head (but A wants to be clear that she felt better today than yesterday)
  • Flic 5b
  • Nives Rosa Tiss 5b
  • Ildefonso 5c
  • Swiss Friends 6a+ (toprope, G did it two times)
  • Il Mano di Fadri 6a
  • La Formica 5b (A only)

Other stuff:

• Hiking in the Zingaro nature reserve on Friday the 29th and then a trail run/hike up to the Monte Monaco to watch the sun-set

Gerstelgrat

Birthday climbing

The forecast calls for sun and ok temperatures, so we decide to do some outdoor climbing.

Train to Olten, hike to Säli, and then the climbing.

Routes, difficulties from SAC (though these are old-school Jura grades, so they feel a lot harder), all in sector Säli Kante

• Hoher Riss rechts: 4c
• Hoher Riss : 4c
• Säli Plaisir : 5b
• Soft Ice : 5c (g only and he top-roped the bottom, which was VERY physical)
• Birthdayparty : 6a (g had to try this, but gave up after a couple of good falls)

It was quite nice when the sun was shining and the wind was down, but was definitely cold in the wind.

Still, it was great to get in an outdoor climbing day!

Climbing in Grandval

The plan is to go to Grandval and climb the the trad route "La reve de wilderness" from Keep Wild Jura.

After some public transportation fun (trains aren't running between Delemont and Moutier, so we have to take the bus and then walk to Grandval) we end up at the bottom of the bolted multi-pitch routes (this is to the left of Cafe Dancing, which we climbed last time) and head around the corner to where the route should start. On with all the gear and then G starts up. This doesn't last long: the rock quality is terrible and he can't find anywhere he's willing to climb, despite looking around for a while. That's enough to suck the motivation out of him to do the clean climbing, so we pack the cams and stuff away and head back around the corner to do the bolted route La Cigale (5b, 5a, 4c+, 5c+, 4c, 5a, 4a... grades from the SAC Tourenportal). This is really nice climbing on good rock (yay!) and nice views,  and is, easy and flowy aside from the 5c+ pitch (which has a bit of spicy slab). There are plenty of other people around, but the two groups we catch up to both let us pass, so we never end up waiting very long.

Up top we pack everything away, have a nice lunch break while enjoying the good weather and views, and then head back down to Grandval to grab the train to Moutier and start our trip home.

A lovely day of Jura climbing. Grandval is a good one to keep in mind for the winter months: not too high, south facing, easy approach, everything one wants. :-)

Late season Grimsel climbing

 Taking advantage of the good weather to get in some late-season climbing up near the Grimsel pass.

Saturday

The usual early-morning story to get the train-train-train-bus connection up to Grimsel. The Basel→Spiez train is, unfortunately, going to Milano, so it’s completely crazy. Ah well, since we board in Basel we can actually get seats.

Once in Chunzentannlein we find a likely looking place to set up camp later, drop the bags with the camping stuff, and then head up to the rock.

Sector Crow, Batzi und Bitzi: 4a 4a 4c 4b 5b 4b 3c 5a 5a 5b+ 5c. We simul-climbed up to the 5b, then again until the 5b+. G did the 5b+ and 5c as one pitch. Total climbing time ~1:20. The simul-climbing went really well and all of the rest of it was easy except the last couple of bolts on the 5c, which were scary slab. To get to the foot descent, we crossed over to the last pitch of the neighboring route and then fought through the bush along a faint path from there until getting to the descent trail for Fliegende Teppich.

After a break we headed down a bit and did some scouting to find the routes for Sunday. Since it was still super early we decided to do the first couple pitches of Ameisenrennen - 5c, 5b. Since those were easy, we also did the 6a that followed (A lead). That was also pretty straightforward (and very well protected), but we wanted to save some juice for Sunday, so we abseiled down and went back to set up camp.

Back down at our stuff we do some more scouting around and find a much better camping site near a crazy boulder. The rest of the afternoon is resting and playing on the boulder until it’s time to make dinner and then go to bed.

Sunday

After a nice breakfast we pack up the camping stuff and set out just before 8:00. We stash the camping bags a bit off the trail and then head up, up to the beginning of Letzter Tango (which is next to Ameisenrennen).

Sector Dom, Letzter Tango: 5a+, 4a, 5b, 5c+, 5a, 4a, 3a, 3a, 5a, 5a, 5a+, 5a, 5c, 5a+, 5b+, 5a+

Lovely route, very efficient climbing. The route took just under 3.5 hours. We did simulclimbing through the 4a, 3a, 3a, 5a with A first then switching to G first (he had all the gear by that point) for the 5a and 5a+ (the 5a would have worked too, but he only had 5 express left at that point and wasn’t sure that would work). Then we switched back to pitches for the last bits.

General note: the grading on this and Ameisenrennen was very generous. None of the pitches felt particularly difficult.

After the climb we packed away the gear and enjoyed some food and the views from up top then set off along a nicely marked (with cairns and the occasional yellow marking) use trail down. The view out across the slabs and water flows that lead up towards the Baechlitalhuette was just fantastic, and we got to walk through that awesome landscape. We have tons of time, so we do another break on a comfy slab to enjoy the views and sun. After the break we join the trail to the Baechlitalhuette and head back down, pick up the camping gear, and head back to where we camped for a coffee/tea and cookies break and more rest (as well as a bit more bouldering for G) while waiting for the 16:30 bus.

The bus is super full (as expected), but we have plenty of time in Meiringen for a kebap before starting the train portion of the journey home.