The day starts like the preceding one: overcast with some low clouds. We are underway at around 9:00.
First we cross the streams/rivers, then up to the glacier. a bit of crampon instruction and practice, then up on to the glacier for real. Up and across until we hit snow, then roping in (one team) and following the snow across to the slope we hope leads to a nice col. Up, up the steep snow, across some ice, more snow, up up. At some point switch to a 3-team and a 2-team, move up. Across the bergschrund, more up to the top of the slope. Here sheltering in the randkluft and doing some planning.
J goes forward, leading up an ugly bit of wet slab and loose mess and then belays the rest of us up. From there it's up, up a fairly loose slope until we high the col. Awesome views from here (we aren't in the clouds since they have lifted). Some food and a discussion about what to do next. We opt for the shorter traverse of pt835 and head up to the peak to our right.
This is a mix of loose mess and some nice scrambling that takes us to the top and some more stunning views. The sun is almost out and it is fantastic! Yay! We're in Greenland! Some cairn building and view appreciation and then we start down the other side.
This is a bit messy and steep, but J finds a great route and gets us down to the col. Another short break, on with the crampons and down the snow on the other side. When it gets a bit steeper (moving from one snow field to the next) we rope in, but otherwise continue down to the glacier. Fast and easy down, down the great snow. Across the glacier and back to camp for soup, quesadillas, and a normal freeze dried meal. Then bed.
What a great day! The weather is really starting to improve. Tomorrow is going to be good!
And here's the track:
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