Saturday, October 26, 2024

Climbing above Engelberg

We decide to take advantage of the good weather by spending the weekend in Engelberg and doing some climbing.

Saturday morning we take the train to Engelberg, drop an extra bag at the hotel, then take the bus, gondola, and chair lift up to the Brunnihütte. From here we hike up to the klettergarten at the Bettlerstock, where our plan is to spend the day doing sport climbing in the sun.

We start in the sector Bettlerstock West, which is unfortunately shady in the morning:

  • Adler 5a
  • Murmel 5b (g only, at this point we decide that it's too cold and windy for this sector)
After moving to Sector South, which was in the sun, though still a bit windy:
  • Südwand 5c (we consider doing the second pitch, but it seems to sketchy for g)
  • Die da 5c+
  • Janosch 6a+ (A halfway, g with one hang)
  • Macbeth 7a (g was playing in toprope here and only made it part of the way up before getting completely blocked on a move)
We called it a day at that point and headed back down to Engelberg.


Sunday morning g got up early and did a trail run before breakfast. After breakfast we headed up to the Brunnihütte again and did some of the short routes on the crag next to the hut. We climbed all of these in approach shoes:
  • Barba Lala 4a
  • Barba Letta 4b
  • Barba Kud 5a
  • Barba Bo 4b
  • Mama Moll 5a
  • Globi 5a
At this point we decided that the weather and views were just too good to be climbing, so we followed the panorama trail to the Rugghubelhütte (their last day open of the season), where we enjoyed cake and cool beverages in the sun while enjoying the fantastic views before heading back down to Engelberg and the train back home.

Memo to ourselves: we really need to go up some weekend, stay at the Rugghubelhütte, and do the Lauchernstock east ridge.

Track from the hike:

Stats: 13.8km, 540m up, 1400m down, 4:10

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