Thursday, March 21, 2024

Climbing trip to Sicily

 

The climbing

  • Friday 22 March, morning. Sector Central bunker
    • Vai a Sinistra 5a
    • Via Kuchenclub 5b
    • Il Ritorno 5c
    • Arrivederci Ingrid 6a (both lead with one fall)
    • Il Nonno 5c
  • Friday 22 March, afternoon. Sector South amphitheatre
    • Burning fat 5a (felt harder than 5a)
    • El Bahira 5b (A only)
    • Just for fun 4c (A only)
  • Saturday 23 March, morning. Sector North Campo Base
    • Maria 5a
    • Eliza 5c (this was our project back on the first visit 12 years ago)
    • Chiara O 5c
    • No Drill No Party 5b
    • Mannara 6a
    • Scorpione In Letargo 6a (G top-rope first 1/2, then down, A top-rope first 1/2, then lead, G lead the whole way, “accidentally” since the planned setup to allow him to top-rope the first 1/2 didn’t work)
    • Calze Nere 6a+, both top-rope the first 3/4 to the head wall (from the stand of Scorpione), which looked easy and uninteresting
  • Saturday 23 March, afternoon. Sector Central For Snails
    • For snails 5a
    • Autonella 5c
    • Stay straight 5c
    • Fay is the boss 6a (top rope, very nice climbing)
  • Sunday 24 March. Sector North Orange Wall
    • Gracie Josef 5c (A kicked loose a big rock on this one and that changed the character of the day for her)
    • Gracie Maria 5c (A to 2nd to last bolt)
    • Pray al Vento 5c (G only)
  • Sunday 24 March. Sector North Campo Base
    • Cimitero della Lumache 6a (A in top rope)
    • Mezzo Crucchi 6a+ (A in top rope)
    • Dolores 6b (G in top rope, A attempts)
  • Monday 25 March. Sector Center Bunker
    • Colazione Piu 5b
    • Pilastrino 5c
    • Strapiombino 5c
    • New Years Greetings 6a
    • Classic Delux 6a+ (A top-rope with some pulling through the very physical crux)
    • Silvester 6a (A top-rope, but it was easy for her)
  • Tuesday 26 March, morning: we tried, but it was super windy, so we went home
  • Tuesday 26 March, afternoon: Sector Far South Cocodrillo
    • King for a day 5b
  • Tuesday 26 March, afternoon: Sector Far South Isulidda tower (we changed sectors because it seemed like the entire German speaking world wanted to climb the four routes we were interested in in Cocodrillo)
    • Tower pillar 6a
    • Luigi 6a
    • Skywalk 6b
    • Anton aus Tirol 6a+ (G only)
  • Wednesday 27 March, morning, Sector Central, Il Paese Piccolo. We ended up leaving early because it was raining
    • Via Giuliano 5b
    • Tibi 5c
    • Don Pedro 6a
  • Wednesday 27 March, afternoon, Sector Central, Il Paese Piccolo
    • A Passatempto 6a
    • Espresso 6a (A 3/4 lead, then top rope over the bulge, but the final beta for this was doable in lead)
    • Sono In Fuga 6a (A couldn’t get over the bulge, which was super physical)
    • Eselparty 6a+ (G only, again super physical over the bulge)
  • Thursday 28 March. Sector South Scomparto Rifiuti
    • Happy Birthday 5b
    • Tre Fratelli 5c
    • Diedro Giallo 6a (A toprope because she wasn’t sure about the physical last bit, but she found a good solution to it and it would have been no problem)
    • Chris 6a (A did 85% of it and then took a bad fall. Finished the route later in toprope)
  • Saturday 30 March. Sector Central, Bunker. Today was super windy, so the climbing was a bit challenging at times and the rope handling required care.
    • La Femmina 5b
    • Fur Christian 5c (A toprope to get her head back in it)
    • Lavoro di Domenica 6a
    • Per Giorgio il mio Amico 6a
    • Happy Otzis 6a
    • Due Giganti sulla Roccia 6a+ (G only, pretty good fall in the crux on the first try)
  • Sunday 31 March. Sector North, Campo Base. A's head wasn't in it for the last half
    • Nini 5c
    • Chiara O 5c
    • Via Della Zanzare 6a+ (A halfway, G the second half but with a PA, A toprope, G toprope)
    • Molloblocco 6b (G in toprope with a couple of rests, this felt like the absolute limit of what was doable. A did some good tries, but couldn’t get through the very thin crux)
    • Mezzi Cruchi 6a+ (G, this was a repeat from last Sunday)
    • Calze Neri 6a+ (G, last week he just top roped the first 80% or so)
  • Monday 1 April. Sector Central, Fakiros Wall. By the end, it was hot and both of us were feeling a bit tired in the head (but A wants to be clear that she felt better today than yesterday)
    • Flic 5b
    • Nives Rosa Tiss 5b
    • Ildefonso 5c
    • Swiss Friends 6a+ (toprope, G did it two times)
    • Il Mano di Fadri 6a
    • La Formica 5b (A only)

Other stuff:


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