Climbing in the Sierras: Crystal Crag's East Arete and Ridge Traverse

After a rest day (and some laundry!) we're both feeling fresh and fit. We get an early start and drive from Bishop to Mammoth Lakes to meet our guide L. After having a coffee we pile into the car for the short drive to the trail head at Lake George. Now along the same path we followed five years ago when we hiked up to the ridge here (no blog post for the hike, unfortunately). Up and up and then turning off from that path towards Crystal Lake and then off on a use path that leads us to Crystal Crag and to the foot of the route up the East Arete.

On with the climbing gear and some more clothes (we are in the shade and it is cold). After a quick discussion of rope signals we start the climbing. This is all done with L leading and then the two of us following (on separate ropes with the last clearing all the gear). At each belay we repeat the process. It's still quite cold, so it's nice that we can climb in the big boots and that the climbing isn't too difficult (not much feeling in the fingertips for subtle holds!). Great rock, fun climbing. At some point we hit a pitch of pure white quartz crystals. Amazing!

Eventually we hit the ridge, the sun, and the first summit, and then continue on a single rope with a mix of down climbing, scrambling, and ridge following until we hit the second summit. Needless to say we got nice views from the ridge and the summits, but we aren't too sad to start down-climbing to get out of the wind. A bit of good down-climbing on the rope (good that we practice this!), and then a walk down to the bottom. Off with the gear, back to town, goodbye to L, lunch, then the drive back to Bishop.

Amusing side story throughout the day: it's cold when not climbing in th sun. L. Mentions the possibility of changing our plans for our two-day trip to do a route that has morning sun. We discuss this while she's climbing and decide, emphatically, yes!. At the next belay, as we get ready to mention this, L gets a text from the office telling her that the trailhead we were planning on using is closed due to a fire, so we'd need to change anyway. L mentions that Mt. Whitney has a great climb for cooler days since the East wall get sun early. We were just there and know how fantastic that wall is, so we agree that it'd be great to climb there if a permit is available. This seems unlikely, but L asks the office to check, says she'll think about other options, and climbs on. At the next belay L gets the text that we have permits and that we're going to climb Whitney as a plan B. :-)

No track for this one.