Saturday, May 08, 2021

Scrambling the Arête du Raimeux

We decided to do the Arête du Raimeux this weekend (it's been a while since we last did this ridge) and opted for Saturday in the hopes that it would be less crowded. The plan is to scramble, but we bring a rope and a bit of gear just in case.

Train to Moutier and then walk to the base of the route (part of the walk with two other folks from the Basel SAC who were planning the Arête Special). There are at least three teams above us on the slabs, which certainly isn't as bad as it could have been. 

On with the helmets and harnesses (again, just in case), and then diagonally up the slab along the crack. At the end of the crack up along the ridge until we get to the top of the first set of slabs. Here we pass a group of climbers and continue to pick our way up, being super careful not to kick rocks down onto the climbers. For the first bit there's tons of loose gravel, so this takes some doing. We generally try to stay left (towards the edge) and just head up, up until reaching the top of the ridge. Here there's a lot less loose rock and the going is much easier. Fun, fun scrambling staying more or less on the ridge except for the two steep climbing bits, which we pass on the right. Great conditions, great views, sometimes some good exposure, almost always good rock. The two downclimbing bits require some care, but aren't bad (for both of them it looks like the right corner is the best way down). We're alone on the ridge aside from another couple a ways behind us who are also scrambling instead of climbing.

Food break towards the end of the scrambling bit (after a bit over an hour), then we come down onto an obvious path and pack away the helmets and harnesses. Now we follow the path the rest of the way up, up the ridge. The SAC hut is, surprisingly, open; so we stop and have a cool beverage before continuing onwards. Once in the open on the ridge we have excellent views of the Alps, which we enjoy as we continue to the "peak" and the tower. Another quick food break, a visit to the tower, and then onwards along the ridge until we get to the trail heading down towards Corcelles. We follow this down, through the gorge, until we hit town and get the train that starts us on our way home. (Stupid thing there: we were a couple minutes late to Moutier and got to see the train to Basel leave just as we got to the doors. That connection is always tight, but they've never left without us before).

Memos for the future: 

  1. there are now some alternate climbing routes on the section with the really greasy 5b. May be worth heading back at some time and actually climbing here.
  2. There is more ridge to the right of the path after we packed away the gear. It looked like harder climbing to get up there and we didn't see any obvious signs that it was frequently done... the topo in Plaisir Jura says that there's a 5b up onto that. Worth considering in the future.

Track:

Stats: 13.1km, 5:30, ~900m up, ~700m down

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