The weather forecast was remarkably good, so we decided to do a weekend trip: climbing above Klus, a hotel night in Balsthal, and then more climbing either above Clus or above Balsthal.
We ended up spending both days at the "Alter Klettergarten" (been here twice before) It all worked out quite nicely: both days the fog burned away from the crag by the time we got there and then it was nice and sunny. There were plenty of people, but it never got crowded enough to be uncomfortable.
Routes we did (it turns out that the grades are quite different between our version of Plaisir Jura and the SAC guide, so I list both)
Saturday:
- Geneigter Verschneidung (5a/5a)
- Geneiger Pfeiler (5b+/5c+) we both agree that this was 5c+... there's a tricky move in the slabby bit that feels well above 5b
- Zaff (5b+/5b)
- Kleiner Überhang (5b/5b+)
- Kante (5c+/6a)
- Körnige Platte links (?/5b+)
- first part of Stifthakenplatten then Körnige Platte links (5b+?)
- Körnige Platte rechts (5a/5a+) greg also did this in approach shoes
- Tag du Arbeit (?/5a) greg did this in approach shoes, but it would have been more fun (and less athletic) with climbing shoes
- Schutzalter Sieben (5a+/5b) it was tricky for both of us to get into it today, so this felt harder than that
- Gelbe Backstein (5a+/5b+)
- Rissverschneidung (5a+/5b)
- An unbolted line next to Rissverschneidung in top rope
- Delago (5b/5b)
- An unbolted line next to Delago in top rope (A only)
- Bohrhakenüberhang (5b/5c)
- Halbschräg: (6a+/6a) in top rope.
This was great climbing and a super mini-vacation.
Gear note: this was greg's first weekend in his new approach shoes: Hanwag Lime Rock GTX
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