Friday, April 07, 2023

Locarno work & play 2023: play day 4

 No sun in the forecast today. We went to Ponte Brolla and climbed a step higher than last time to avoid the crowds. Mission successful there.

The routes:

  1. Via Eugenio: 4c
  2. Wim: 5a
  3. Robert Lembke: 5c both toprope (A did some rigging to make this work)
  4. Mueslimaa: 5c (G lead, A toprope and then lead)
  5. Le Le: 5b
  6. Primavera: 5c+ (A: toprope, G lead) pump fest in the crack at the top
  7. Framezzo: 5c+ (G lead, after a couple of tries at the beginning, A toprope)

Thursday, April 06, 2023

Locarno Work & Play 2023: play day 3

Today we did the lovely long multi-pitch on the Speroni di Ponte Brolla: Quarzo / Quarzader

We got a reasonably early start in the hopes of avoiding the crowds and were successful. There was one pair quite far ahead of us and then another pair who were behind us but didn’t make stress. 

The pitches: 5a, 5a, 5a, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5a+, 5a, 6a, 5b, 4b

Greg started and we both actually climbed the 6a pitch and didn’t pull on the ‘draws.

Super nice route. A. wants to go at some point during the week and climb the route in the sun and warmth. :-)

Afterwards we walked back to Locarno along the top. Same as last time.

Sunday, April 02, 2023

Locarno Work & Play 2023: play day 2

Today we headed off to Placche Rosse for multi-pitch slab fun.

The routes (grades, again, from Plaisir Sud:

  1. Harlem: 4c, 5b, 5a, 5a
  2. Havana: 5c, 5b, 5a, 5c, 5b+
The climbing was fun and we were nice and efficient both while climbing and abseiling. There were surprisingly many people there, considering the focus on slabs. :-)






Saturday, April 01, 2023

Locarno Work & Play 2023, play day one

We started the climbing at Ponte Brolla, as one does. 

The routes (grades from the 2011 Plaisir Sud):
  1. Sunneblueme 5a
  2. Noggeli 4c, g did it in his trail-running shoes
  3. L’intifada 5b (This is awesome and fun, but is too long for a 60m rope. Creativity was required)
  4. Zuchitt go home 5b
  5. Orma 5c (A lead and then top rope)
  6. Chili 5b (A lead and then top rope)

Day started with beautiful blue skies, then some clouds came in, but it was still warm and lovely. And full… my goodness were there a lot of people there, particularly people doing multipitches who didn’t really know what they were doing. Climbing is booming! :-)


Locarno Work & Play: overview

We left the Friday before the Easter week for some "work & play" in Locarno, staying in the same apartment as before, having lots of fun, as before...