Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Dolomites Day 3: up to the Col de la Pieres

We had seen this peak at the end of the Puez massif quite nicely on both of our previous days of hiking. A hike promising great views that we could start directly from our flat was too good to pass up.

We get a late start (9:45) since we have to head to the grocery store first to get lunch supplies. The path starts pretty steeply out of town, through the woods for a while, and then turns to head up the Palota, the "Express" route up to the Steviahütte. This heads steeply up through the trees to the face of the Steviola, and then snakes its way up the face. The views are great, the temperature is good, we make excellent time: after an hour we're 600m up on the plateau. The path leads us across the plateau, around the end of the impressively narrow gorge down from the St. Silvesterscharte, and then up the other side to the Steviahütte. The hut is open, but it looks like they're closing up for the season, so we continue on (it's too early for a beer anyway).

After another bit of climbing we enjoy a sandwich break in the sun, with views out over most of Day one's hike as well as the Sella and Langkofel massifs. Up a bit more to the Pizascharte with its steep path down to the Regensburgerhütte and then around the bowl under the grass slopes of the Muntijela to the scree slope at the end. We have some fun during the stretch trying to pick out the path that leads up to our peak. The way through the scree slope is clear, but beyond that it's tough to really see. The path ends up being quite fun: steep but not particularly scrambly, secured by cables (not really necessary) in a couple of spots. They've clearly put a lot of effort into the trail.
The view from the top is spectacular. It's also not particularly windy... crazy! We head to the cross to have another sandwich break and enjoy the views before heading up a few meters higher to the true peak, where we have an amazing 360 degree panorama. There definitely are bonuses for going to the tops of things. ;-)
The path leads us steeply down, including a bit of scrambling, towards the Forces de Sieles saddle. From there it's down the scree slope (mostly frozen since this area won't see the sun again until next summer) into the valley below. On the valley floor we decide, with regrets, that it's really too late in the day to do the loop through the Roascharte and Wasserscharte, so we just head down the valley. Along the way, the sun on the grass ridge above is too much to resist, so we scramble up and enjoy our last sandwich in the sun, goggling at the teeth at the end of the Geislergruppe and wondering how difficult the klettersteig to the top of the Sas Rigais really is... the views from there must also be really nice. Ah well, that's for another day.
The path leads us down the rest of the valley to the nicely situated Regensburgerhütte (also still open), and then further down to Wolkenstein. We get back to the flat with our legs nicely tired and our eyes quite full. :-)



From the track: 15.1 km, 1345m height change.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Dolomites Day 2: around the Langkofel

Today starts completely cloudless; the views from the flat are amazing. :-)

We drive to the Sella Joch and park in the empty parking lot at the hotel before setting off along the path towards the Rifugio E. Comici. We've got great views across to the Sella massif, towards the Langental and Puezspitz (from day one), and, of course, up to the Langkofel massif over our heads. We follow the path in the sun along the foot of the massif, sometimes through woods, sometimes in the open around to the bergstation at Rif. E. Comici. Along the way we see a few deer and, later, what looks like a couple chamoix together with a sheep, though that seems unlikely.
From the bergstation we head down a bit through scrub forest before turning off to the left and following the path across the scree and into the shadow of the Langkofel. The path is wide and easy and the views are panoramic and wonderful. At the end of the scree slope we ascend a bit to a ridge and follow the path towards the next bergstation to get a good 270 degree view out over the Grödnertal, Langental, etc. This would be a great spot for a break, but not without sun: the temperature is around 6 degrees in the shade and there's still frost on the ground. Back on the path we follow the scree again for a while and descend a bit before taking a path that leads us up into the massif, to the Langkofelhütte. The hut is closed and we're still in the shadows, so we do a quick food break before the call of the sunny areas we can see below gets too strong and pulls us onwards. Down we go to pick up the path around the massif again, passing a few people along the way, finally getting into the sun again (ah... sun!). Down a bit more and then back up to another ridge and the Piz da Uridl, where we enjoy a food break in the sun with fantastic views.
Now we follow the gently rising path in the sun, with nice views, above the Murmeltierhütte, until the path joins the dirt road coming up from a parking lot at a bergstation. There are plenty of people around now. Upon arriving at the Plattkofelhütte we consider doing the 1.5 hour trip to the peak, but since the hut is still open we reject the peak in favor of liquid refreshment and enjoyment of the views of the Marmolata while sitting. ;-)

From here it's an easy walk without much in the way of height change around the massif. Just before reaching the bergstation over the Sella Joch parking lot we enjoy our last sandwich while watching masses of paragliders. During the last bit down we have an excellent panoramic view to distract us from the ski-slope-in-summer ugliness all around us. The parking lot itself is now mostly full, it's hard to imagine what this place must be like in high season.

Back at the car we maneuver our way past the tour busses and then head back down to Wolkenstein. The plan to pick up some groceries for dinner is thwarted by a festival in some other nearby town which has seemingly attracted all the residents of Wolkenstein: everything is closed. Doh! Ah well, we had a great day of hiking and improvising something for dinner won't be that hard.


From the track: 17.1 km, 905m height change.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Dolomites Day 1: to the Puez Hütte

We wake up to a mostly cloudless blue sky, which was a great relief after driving up through clouds to get to Wolkenstein on Saturday. Today we can actually see something and appreciate the views from the flat.

We start by walking a bit along the road to get out of town, past the ruins of the Wolkenstein fort, to a big parking lot (still almost empty except for a couple of RVs) at the end of the road. From here we follow a couple of people along the well-trod path across a meadow until our route leads on a less-used path across a stream and up through the woods. Now we climb and climb through the woods. We're under mostly evergreens with some larches mixed in that have already changed color. We climb out of the woods and the Chedultal opens in front of us: steep cliffs to either side with scree at the bottom and a bit of green valley between, typical Dolomite valley. The path leads us along the valley floor and climbs to the Crespeinajoch at the end. We see a couple of groups of chamoix up in the screes. We also start seeing more people here: there's a path coming through the right-hand wall (the Cirjoch) that seems to be more popular than ours, on that side you can do the vertical meters with a gondola. :-)

From the Crespeinajoch we have great views to both sides, including the Langental and the Puez Hütte, which we enjoy for a bit while having a quick snack before continuing with a bit of descent to the Crespeinasee (pretty dry and sad at this time of year). There are clouds threatening a bit, coming over the mountains to the right... no good for the views! The path leads us around the end of the valley, in and out of cloud, to the Ciampei Joch, a thin bit of land that serves as the end of the Langental and the valley leading down to Corvara. Then up again a bit to the plateau and along to the Puezhütte. The hut itself is closed, but it's still a popular stopping point and the sun is shining at this point.
We do another quick food break while soaking up the amazing views and then head off in search of the Col de Montijela, which should have another great set of views. There's no signage, so we had off on a path that goes in the right general direction for a bit before heading off across country for a rise that is topped with a bunch of stonemen. Our route leads across a landscape of crazily eroded rocks to the rise, which gives us nice views to the North down into the XXX tal. Theoretically we could see much more, but the clouds prevent that today. We head back towards the Puezhütte and then continue along the side of the valley, in and out of clouds, before descending steeply to the floor of the Langental. This is clearly a very popular daytrip destination: we're definitely not lonely as we follow the broad path out to the parking lot (now full) and then the road back into town.




From the track: 19.0 km, 1300m height change.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Hiking in the Glarner alps

Text to come.




Sunday, August 01, 2010

Two days from Innertkirchen->Engelberg

Day one starts pretty late, we leave Basel on a train at 8:01 instead of the more usual 6:01 or 7:01... Ah what a luxuriously slow start. The train takes us to Interlaken and then from there on to Meiringen where we change for the (full... Boy are things full this late) bus to Innertkirchen. Now we're on foot an a path that more or less follows the road (the Sustenpass road... Not an empty one) for the first bit before heading up a bit and then paralleling it. It is not greg's favorite kind of walking to be sure, but that's just the way it goes sometimes, onwards for a while until we hit Nessental where we make a sharp turn and head up the side of the valley. At first the way is road, but then it eventually becomes a nice path through the woods. Nice bit of climbing and climbing, a bit slower than normal because Andrea's legs are heavy, and then we make it to the Tällihütte, our destination for the day. Nice rest with a cool beverage on the terrace and then a quick nap before dinner. Good eating here... It's a bit more expensive than an SAC hut, but there are some bonuses for the hotel experience.

Sunday starts with good weather and a good breakfast, then we head out around 7:40 and up to the Sätteli. Original plan was to do the klettersteig, but Andrea's heavy legs plus the hoards of people we see heading that way (the first gondola arrives at around 7:30 and dispatches a group of 8 who head to the 'steig... this is how it starts) change our minds, we will just do a normal hike. So... steeply up to the Sätteli where we have great views towards the Trift glacier, parts of the Berner Oberland (including the Raenfenhorn and Dossen), Titlis, the Sustenhorn, etc. Very nice.

After a bit of enjoying the views, down the other side towards Engstlenalp. Great path round the side of the valley, descending gently, takes us there. A short break above the "kiosk" and then it's up, up again through the Schaftal towards the Jochpass. Good ascent beside a really nice looking climbing wall (plenty of routes visible, but only being climbed in one place). After a while we start hearing alphorns playing, which provide a very cool soundtrack for the climb. Unfortunately they stop playing just as we get close and decide to do our lunch break, so we do not have a lunch time serenade... damn. After lunch down a bit to the pass and the thick of the people (the Jochpass is served by chair lifts from both sides). Nice views down to Engelberg and across to the Walenstöcke, Ruchstock, and the Engelberger Rotstock. We also start to hear a really good cow concert from up here; behind is quiet but in front is a very musical herd.

Down the other side we go, heading inevitably towards Engelberg. At the Trüebsee we do a refreshment break (mmmmmmm beer and french fries) before continuing on our way down, down, down. At Untertrüebsee the signs for an alpkäserei are too much for Greg to resist. A quick detour is made to get some cheese. This turns out to be doubly rewarding because not only do we end up with a couple of nice pieces of cheese, but they are selling the cheese from the room in which it's made, so while we are waiting to buy we can gawk at all the cool cheese making stuff and the cheeses in various stages of completion.

Further down and we hit Engelberg, where a train awaits that will take us back towards home.

Things didn't quite go according to plan on this trip, but it was still a nice bit of walking, particularly on Sunday.