Sunday, March 23, 2025

Climbing vacation in Finale Ligure

Sunday

Morning:

Trail run together

Afternoon climbing

Crag: Avancorpo Di Boragni

g starts

  • Quinta Elementare 5a
  • Primi Passi 5b
  • A Naso 5b+
  • Passera 5c
  • Via Senza Nome 1 5c

Monday

First we tried Casa del Vacche, but it was too wet

Crag: Falesia dello Scoiattolo

A starts

  • Nuvole 5a
  • Corridoio 5c (A on TR)
  • Struzzo (6a+, g TR, A TR with an alternate beta for the overhanging bottom)

Tuesday

Crag: Falesia della Coccinella

g  starts

  • 14 5a
  • 15 5a
  • 10 5b
  • 9 5c (this one was tricky between the 1st and 2nd bolt. We both did it lead with some hanging, then top roped it to refine the movement)
  • 16 5c (no problem)
  • 17 6a+ (g lead, A toprope; a start that looked athletic, but wasn’t that bad, then a tricky bit of slab before an easy finish)

Wednesday

Crag: Falesia della Coccinella

A starts

There were some things that looked good left to climb, so we came back.

  • 20 5a
  • 21 5b (very physical at a couple of points. A did TR)
  • 18 6a 
  • 23 5c+ Fun climb; harder in some ways that the 6a
  • 22 6a (A did TR with a bit of help over the physical crux). Super nice after the physical crux

Thursday

Crag: Falesia del Gorilla

g starts

Alone in the morning, then more people showing up in the afternoon. Really nice, long routes.

  • 9 5a
  • 10 5b
  • 14 5c (35m, lovely!) (g with a fall going over one overhang)
  • 12 5c+ (34m, lovely!)
  • 1 6a fun!
  • 8 6a (31m, soooo nice after the weird start)

Friday

Crag: Falesia del Condor

A starts

Really nicely situated crag; we were alone all day.

  • 1 5b
  • 2 5c (start looks super physical but is actually pretty easy)
  • 7 5c
  • 8 5c+
  • 9 6a
  • 10 6b (A in TR) This was g's first 6b onsight
  • 5 6a

Saturday: 

Some rain in the morning, so we went trail running. After the first loop together (with three different sets of people asking us how to find a famous cave with easy climbing routes), g repeated the loop from the first day on his own.

Other stuff: 

  • we rented a car in Basel and drove down. The drive, less than 6 hours since we didn't have traffic, wasn't bad at all.
  • the flat worked well and the location up on the hill above town was great.

This was a great trip and we definitely need to go back. :-)

Saturday, March 08, 2025

Barenfels climbing

 It was a fantastic, warm, spring day, so we went climbing in the afternoon at Barenfels.

Routes:

  • Steinbrunnenwand: Green River 5b
  • Ostgruppe: Bel Ami 5b
  • Ostgruppe: Level 2 5c+ (g only)
  • Ostgruppe: Oliver Twist 5a (A only)
  • Ostgruppe: Chruetlischwur 6a (g, toprope)
We were, unsurprisingly, not alone (at least until we moved over the Ostgruppe) :-)

We are both still very much getting used to climbing on rock again, so this was good progress.